41 replies to this topic

[Tel]

Add Mine!

http://www.purepwnage.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34832

[XxSystemxX]

First post updated. Thanks to Champsi, D.Shamon and Tel for writing the great tuts.

[Moneo]

http://www.purepwnage.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37240
Add mine too plx!

-Mon

[Champski]

Okay, some of you might think it's unnessesary, but I decided to do a tut on the sliders wormhole after all. This is only one way of applying it though, there are effects used in this that can be used in any other kind of art that needs perspective.

Just so you know, this is the movie I'm working with in this tut and this is the frame I'm using.



Firstly, open up a document in photoshop, i'm using cs2, I'm not sure if it'll work with other versions. I used 1024 x 768 because it's nice and wide to work with.

Default your colours and render clouds. Then render difference clouds but only a couple of timeus unitl its mostly white, and it has a sort of veiny look to it. Go filter>distort>pinch and set it to 100. Repeat that twice more so you've done it a total of 3 times. This is something similar to what you should have.



got to filter>sketch>chrome and make your settings so the detail is 10 and the smoothness is 0.

Go to image>adjustments>levels and tweak it so it looks brighter and the white parts stand out more. Now get out the free transform tool and whilst holding shift, grab the top middle handle and drag it up so the centre is now somewhere near the top. This will help us give the illusion that we'r emoving upwards through the tunnel, like in the frame. Notice how there's a big area around the outside that hasn't been pinched? Get out the clone tool and take samples from the pinched bit and paint them around the flat parts so everything looks like it's pinched. You should have something like this so far.



Now I've got to somehow explain how to create the edge that you see at the top of the frame where the tunnel turns. Duplicate your layer of shiny chrome goodness and open up the radial blur filter. Set it to 10, spin, best, and away you go. Now open up levels, and set the black input level to 110. Now get the eraser and erase around until you get a little ring around the splotch in the middle, but also make it so that there's a sort of wall coming down on both sides. If that's too hard, you can always just do the ring and smudge the walls down, like I did. Use the wall part as a guide, since it won't really be seen later, it's mostly part of the shadow, which we'll build up on now.



Make a layer above the ring guide and get out the brush tool. With my brush at 92 with 0 hardness and 10 flow, I looked at the frame and zoomed in on the colours, so this is what I did. Make your colour a dark grey at first, because if you look at the edge in the frame, it starts off grey. So we're basically building up the edge we've made already. My foreground colour was set to 1e1e1e. Start brushing around the outside edge of the guide, slightly over lapping it but make sure you can still see a bit of it. Next we have to change the colour to a really dark part of the yellow pallette. I used 2a2600. Make one pass around the grey part on the outside, once again overlapping it slightly so the colours partially blend. At this point I changed my brush size to 68 because it was going to be too think otherwise. Once again, use a slightly lighter colour, I used 413a00. This time we're going to lightly brush around most of the image now, mainly where all the yellow is.



I changed my flow to 5 for this, so I had more control over what I was doing. I then made a layer above all this brown and took a grey colour out for the rest of the scene. I used a lighter grey, 686868. I also then used 2a2600 again to make small little blotches around the place, as you might be able to see around the left side of the frame. I left some of the chrome still visible amongst the colours, it'll help the look of the wisps when we bring them into play. This is the mess I've created so far.



Don't despair, this may look like a mess, but so far, that's my plan. We need to later build the wisps on top of the colour so the colour is showing through the wisps like in the frame.

Next, it's time to lay down some more colour, which will for the most part enhance the flow of the image and show the direction. The colour is fairly straight forward on this frame, so it's shouldn't be too hard. The colour I'm talking about is the small thin lines underneath the actual wisps. So let's get to it.

As you can see, the smaller lines are mostly pale purple and pinky colours, so we're gonna have a go at that. Make a new layer above everything else, and get out the brush tool. I changed the size to 20, and the flow to 30. My foreground colour is now 986ba9. Go into the brushes tab and in shape dynamics, make the first control fade, and set it to 60. From the outside in, stroke the wisps, making sure to change the brush size in between, but mostly as you get towards the middle, to further create the illusion of perspective. Make sure they have a random sort of look to them, so that they don't all look like they're following the same path, sort of give them a messy look. You can also make the brush bigger and draw smaller wisps around the place to make the others look more "floaty". I also duplicated the layer, gave it a 48 gaussian blur, and set it to overlay. I don't know about you, but I think our mess is starting to take a bit of shape.



Now it's time to get some serious wisp action happening. Add a new layer on top of everything else, and pick out a lightish orange as the base, I used ffcf4d. Now this part will be eaasier if you read the tutorial I did earlier in this thread about the psychadelic hippy clouds, this is essentially the same thing, except now I'm calling them wisps. So now you've got your colour, get out the polygonal lasso tool. Make a weird shape on the page like this.



Having written the previous tutorial, I now find it much better to include holes and weird shapes inside the actual shape itself, because that way, the whole selection becomes wispy and not just the outside, where you're left with a big wavy bulk. Right, so now you've made your shape, fill it with the colour you've selected. Looks great right? No it doesn't. You idiot. This is what you do now. Go filter>distort>wave, and use the default settings. Then go edit>fade wave and fade it on normal setting at 50% opacity. Repeat the process of wave then fade until you have what looks like a cloud. I then duplicated the layer and blurred it a 48, and set the layer mode to hard light, and merged them together. Repeat this until you have all the yellow around the edges where it needs to be, keeping in mind you can muck around with the blending modes in the meantime. I added slight radial zoom blurs to some of the layers too, giving further the impression of movement.



It's starting to look rather mystical now, isn't it?

So it's been sitting there the whole time, not being touched. What are we going to do about the little splotch in the middle? Weeeeeeell, if you look at the frame, there's a big bright explosion of red and a bit of blue, so since the splotch is the main focus of the picture, we're going to try and make it look as bright and in your face as we can, so it catches your attention. I've decided I'm going to do this with lens flares.

Make a new layer above everything else and fill it black. go filter>render>lens flare and aim it at the splotch as best as you can. If you don't get it at first, just undo it and try it again. Select 105mm prime with 110 brightness. Set the layer mode to colour dodge. You can experiment with other blend modes but I tend to find colour dodge works best with this. It's pretty bright now, isn't it? Open up hue/saturation, and with colourize selected, set the hue to 218 and the saturation to 35. The cool thing about this is that it also reflects on the little purple wisps, making them look a bit blue, making it look also a bit more real, imo. But we're not done. The main part is red, so we're going to make another layer on top of everything, and fill it with black. Once again, go to lens flare, but this time choose 50-300mm prime at 120 brightness, and set the position slightly lower and to the right of the previous one. Repeat this but on the left side.



There, I don't think that came out too bad, do you? Since this is a tutorial, this one's rather simple in comparison to the others, but you can use these techniques to achieve great effects on almost anything you're creating.

If you are going to do something based on a wormhole or "hippy tunnel" like this, then here's the link for all the wormhole footage taken from sliders.

Also, if anyone actually decided to read the WHOLE tutorial , and use the effects, I wouldn't mind seeing your results, if that's okay with you.

[BlightedArt]

Uber Micro With The Brush.

This example is to show you how I made my uber micro with Photoshop 7. I’m sorry for those of you
who do not have this on your computer. Anyway, I started with a blank canvas, then filled it Black,
and made a new layer after cutting out the person you see in Fig 1.



After that, I used the brush tool (and a wacom tablet =P ) to scribble out the main guidelines of what
path I want the uber micro to follow, on a NEW LAYER (Fig. 3) . Here’s where planning is important,
because I already had the idea of “lunging hands” for micro before I even created Fig.1.
In Fig. 2 you’ll see the guidelines. Be creative! Want to photoshop in a tiger lunging forth? Or have
no real symbolism at all? It’s up to you! The idea’s and how they are delivered are the two
important things about this competition.



Now that I’ve got an idea of what I want, and a brief set-up of it, it’s time to blob in the basic colour,
I chose a sort of sky blue, as lightning (which you’ll hopefully be able to tell was the element I
had in mind judging from the shape of the ‘flow’ in Fig. 2), is often resembled as such if given colour.
Make this colour on a new layer, call it “Base Colour” if you want. I just made it follow the bolder lines
of my guide layer, but not the small nit-bitty parts straggling out the sides of the lines, hands, or orb
at the persons palm. It gives our “aura” some sort of definite shape.



After that, and after storing my colour to a swatch, I made another new layer. For this one, I kept my
primary colour, and went to the top of the page with the brush tool equiped, and changed the Mode
from “Normal”, to “Screen”, basically when you colour over something with this on, even with the same
colour, it knocks it up a tone brighter with each stroke. You might want to take the opacity down a bit,
this’ll give it a slower “knock” to each tone, and allows you to control how intense or how mild you want
a transition from your primary colour to white to be. Brush over your colour a few times on your new
layer and you should see the cool effect this Mode can bring.



Up untill now I’ve been hiding my “guide” layer with each screenshot. :3 Rawr.

Next, I make a new layer and basically do the same thing that I’ve done with the guide layer at the start.
Using 100% white, I’ve sketched in the shape of the aura and “skeletal structure” of the whole thing,
including parts of the hands. You might also see on closer inspection that the sketches are zig-zagging
and jutting around a little, this is intentional as it adds the feel of “lightning” to the piece, and avoids
making it look like I’ve just forgotten to erase my planning (this isn’t planning anyway, it’s part of the
final product). After that I changed the opacity of the layer via the layer panel to make the structuring
obvious, but not TOO obvious.



Now this part here isn’t really a necessity, but I put it in here anyway. We’re going to look at the
Multiply function. This a brush/pencil mode that acts in the OPPOSITE way that “Screen” does that I
showed you earlier. Instead of knocking the tone brighter, it knocks it to a darker setting. If I use this
tool at any time in this image, it’s always going to be on the outline of the whole thing, so that the
white is still dominating the center (where the power is), and the ‘black’ is residing on the outskirts
of the flow of power (which is where the force straggles off to). I used the multiply mode to define
the shape of my lunging hands. Make sure to do this on a new layer.



I continued to do this all around the hands and around the outsides of the “arms” on the image, then
taking down the opacity of the multiply layer to prevent the outline being too dominant. It’s still very
dominant at the moment, but this changes later. It looks too cartoony with the thick lines to just leave
at that.



Once again I went back to defining the “lightning”. New layer, white brush, thin brush remember. And
then using the 2nd guide layer I made, I basically went over it and included all the zappy, zinging lines.

And by “went over it” I mean create a new layer, and trace over it. It’s a lot easier to make a new layer
for everything than backtrack through photoshops limited history to try fix anything.

Try to keep the lightning following the main flow of the force, but don’t keep it all in uniform. After all,
this individual with the ironic “#6” t-shirt and overarll student appearance is ACTUALLY a master of
Uber Micro!! Who’d have thunk it eh? Anyway, you want to show that there’s so much power involved
in this force, it’s incredible power!! But you also want to show that he has extreme control over this
devastating entity spewing from his hand. So let bits of the force straggle outward and such, but keep
it in control. Fig. 9 should show you what I mean:



You can see a lot more pieces of bright white lightning shoe-stringing out from the main flow of power
here. But even so the bulk of it follows the set path, there’s little bits all over the place. Now we’re going
to do something a little different, I hid all my layers for this next figure, but you should hide all layers
except your guide layer, so you can get the flow right. This next part is to create a type of background
to your force, an aura around it, and also to make the start of the power (at the micro students hand)
appear to be charging energy at the same time of firing it (sort of like in WWII when machine gunners
had their bullets fed to their guns by another individual). Make this on a new layer, and put that layer
behind all other layers except your guide.



Okay, the hand has some sort of aura flash dwelling about it now. But what about the loops? Well, when
charges of immense energy are pulsing in one area, you can often find that if the power is immense
enough (like the surface of the sun), the energy leaps away from the source and is basically dragged
back to the focal point of the power. I’m not quite sure of the physics of it, but happens a lot, especially
in animation, and it looks damn cool. =P The little loops that are out at the end there are just going
to be set behind the force-hands and arms, showing the same principle of focussed power is applied. 10 points to anyone that noticed the “Screen” brush mode being used here!!



Wow... Okay I do NOT want to mess with this guy anytime soon... Which is the feel I’ve been trying to get
this whole time. So I added to the “straggline power” a bit, on a new layer I used the screen brush again
and this time even used white simultaniously to show the power from his palm actually backtracking
down his arm and glowing off his body, it’s so powerful that it’s going the wrong way!! I intensified the
loops on the back layers, gave the guy a very primitive shadow and blue glow, and made an aura around
the whole lightning part. I also toned down the outlines (from the Multiply Layer) around the hands
by using the Eraser tool (E), and changing the opacity of it to erase it just a little bit at a time. After just
tweaking it a little more, I finally come up with a finished product, the total amount of time on this
was probably about 20-40 minutes for me, I didn’t keep track. :3



And yeah! Hopefully this shows you guys how to make an uber micro picture. You just need to think
about what element you want to represent in your image, and try to think about the principles of it.

Such as water, water can be weak if it’s just dribbling out of the dudes hand. However if you have a lot
of water bursting out with immense pressure like a hydro-pump (Pokemon anyone?) then that’s more
like being hit by a cannonball. But take into consideration that with water travelling so fast and hard,
there’s going to be a very linear path for it, little bits of water spraying out he side, but with the speed
and force it travels at, it’d be more like one straight (slightly bent due to gravity) line, as opposed to
splayed paths like in my Lightning Micro.

Fire on the other hand is a gas, and instead of sharp lightning splaying out from the main path, steam
would be. It moves a lot more freely than pumed water, and tends to cone outwards at the end (like a
flamethrower) but drip oily bulks of fire all over the place.

So try to think about your element before depicting it, and don’t expect to get it right first time, there’s
things I see in my final product here that seem a bit ‘off’ to me, but that’s no reason to not be proud of it!

Hope this little piece helped you guys out a little, and I hope you’ll enter the competition I’ve set up!

-BlightedArt.

[RyGar]

awesome looking man wish i could do things like that

[aldwyn]

that's some hardcore photoshop skills you got there guys...really useful...ty for sharing that stuff

[Tw!sT3d Sn!p3r]

Where can I get some awesome PS texts?

[elliotter]

A good site is www.dafont.com

Thats where I go for all my fonts

If you don't know this, in order to get them to work, you have to click and drag your downloaded fonts into your Microsoft Fonts Folder.

[Tw!sT3d Sn!p3r]

A good site is www.dafont.com

Thats where I go for all my fonts

If you don't know this, in order to get them to work, you have to click and drag your downloaded fonts into your Microsoft Fonts Folder.

Sorry I never thanked you... Thanks! Was alot of help man!

[Doc_Holiday92]

these tutorials really help me on making a few cool pics ;P

[Tw!sT3d Sn!p3r]

these tutorials really help me on making a few cool pics ;P

My fav tut. It has some nice things to remember and throw in at any time.
http://forums.clantemplates.com/showthread.php?t=95379

My outcome :

[Vishamon]

Some Chinese company has stolen some of my buddy's free tutorials, and is now trying to sell them for profit. If you want to halp me get to the bottom of it, PM me. Thanks.

[mw.pmi]

Stillness Of Heart: Signature Tutorial



Or Make This:
<click thumbnail>


+Illustrate IT: http://www.dafont.com/search.php?psize=m&q=illustrate+IT
+JaneAusten: http://www.dafont.com/search.php?psize=m&q=JaneAusten

~Available FONTS as listed at the bottom of the Tutorial, "Illustrate IT", and "JaneAusten" Fonts can be also additionally found at http://www.dafont.com/en

[mw.pmi]

+FONTS Found Here: Download:
http://files.filefront.com/Symbol_Font_Packzip/;6989568

Stock:
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5273/kodaih6tq6.jpg

Audio Tutorial:
“Alles Es Alles”.MP3:
http://files.filefront.com/Audio_Alles_Es_...toImp3/;7452265




+GoldenEye 007 http://www.dafont.com/search.php?psize=m&q=GoldenEye+007
+Wintermute: http://www.dafont.com/search.php?psize=m&q=Wintermute
+SF Digital Galaxy Symbols: Check the "+FONTS" link above

~Available FONTS as listed at the bottom of the Tutorial, "GoldenEye 007", and "Wintermute" and “SF Digital Galaxy Symbols” Fonts can be also additionally found at http://www.dafont.com/en

[mw.pmi]

DOWNLOAD LINK: KM Xposed LRO w/ Tutorial “How To”:
http://files.filefront.com/LRO_Over_Expose...430zip/;7389847

PREVIEW:
<click thumbnail>


Exposure Packs: See This Thread: (Thanks PIMP!)
http://www.gfxrebels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=989

07.04.30
FILE: KM XPOSED Sig Pack 07.04.30.zip
CREATED BY: Cleveland A. Paige Jr. aka .PMI - .Imp
FILE SIZE: 5 MB .ZIP Format
WEB: http://www.microsoft-vista.ws/

This file is for LEARNING RIGHTS ONLY. LAYER usages in other signatures of your doing are prohibited.

Cannot be used or placed into your Forum Signature Block, at ANYTIME.


Special ShoutOuts:
WEBSITES SPECIAL THANKS:
http://www.myspace.com/liquidchronomorphic
http://www.rd-gfx.net/
http://www.alphaeffects.com/
http://www.gfxrebels.com/forum/
http://www.render-world.com/
http://www.fablesandsuch.org/forum/
http://www.clantemplates.com/
http://www.gfxjunk.com/board/
http://www.digital-artisans.net/forum/
http://www.unitedgraphicsartist.com/
http://www.4th-street.net/
http://z4.invisionfree.com/MagicGFX/
http://bestsotw.com/forums
http://gfx.caws.ws/
http://www.codedfx.com/
http://www.gamereplays.org/community/

+Special Brushes Usages: AXERAIDER07 @:

For more brushes, visit http://axeraider70.deviantart.com .
Thank you so much mate, and Advanced Photoshop Magazine for your MARVELOUS Brush Packs.

+Additional Shouts Out: PIMP for his marvelous Exposure Effects Pack, KTutorials and the entire GFX Rebels Site and Staff, and GFX-R Members. Gareth, Spiceroy and the entire CodedFX Staff and Members, UV Street and Slash 3, w/ StyleFocus, Klenuke, and also the entire BestSOTW Staff and Team.

Cordially Yours,

mw.PMI
Master Works (mw)
MSN ADD: levelone.pmi@hotmail.de

[mw.pmi]

How To Make An Impressive & Professional Tutorial?

Download FileFront File Link:
http://files.filefront.com/TUTORIAL__SAMPL...Es9zip/;7367295

Preview:
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/3296/tu...alsamplegv2.jpg

Description:
07.04.29
FILE: TUTORIAL: Tutorial Creation.zip
CREATED BY: Cleveland A. Paige Jr. aka .PMI - .Imp
FILE SIZE: 5MB .ZIP Format
WEB: http://www.microsoft-vista.ws/

This file is those that need a STARTING POINT in making a valuable, crisp and clean looking, Website Forum Sized Tutorial for your signatures. If you need it to be longer, (please keep the current WIDTH.), just go to
IMAGE, and then click on the CANVAS SIZE, and just increase the HEIGHT as you continue to add onto the length of the Tutorial.

This can be altered to fit your needs and inserting your images inside it. So, there are no prohibitions or restraints on this .PSD. Use and alter it and change it how you wish, making sure you make a BKUP on this file...
so that you can claim it as your own, when you add your materials, sentences and images in it for Tutorial finalizations.

+I was recently asked on several sites how do I make my Tutorials look so "magazine" like. Easy to read, and easy to follow with the "STEPS" inserted in them, and additional things like "the music I listen to for each step". I found it rather interesting that my Tutorials were getting such a positive feedback, that I've decided to release a SAMPLE Fully Opened Layered, UnRasterized (text) .PSD. You can use this as a basis and platform for your very own Tutorial projects. Manipulated and change, and alter it however you wish. Fully Permitted and Advised. Make Master copies and BKUPs, and save it as YOUR VERY OWN PROPERTY and FILE, and add your own permissions when sharing with others. For those that download it, its YOURS! Enjoy!

Have Fun,

Cordially Yours,

.PMI
MSN ADD: levelone.pmi@hotmail.de

[mw.pmi]

LINKS:
MEGADOWNLOAD:
http://www.megaupload.com/de/?d=LSSR3813

TOZZIE-DESIGN HOSTED:
<..for those who cannot access MEGA UPLOAD's Site>
http://www.tozzie-designs.com/tuts/pmi/signature/

Thanks to all Pure Pwnage and Admins, and many others, for the encouragement. 15MB in size. Includes all 31 .JPGs of each of the steps, and the FULL .JPG with all 31 steps combined. You can open it in Photoshop, if you prefer, for viewing, or whatever program that you use. The .ZIP includes the .PNG/stock image AND the 3 packs of Brushes mentioned in the Tutorial.

RESULTS:

Just a capture of my style and technique and fans of the style/technique, and you can add onto it your view and form of expression. Created this back in May 2006, and was Inter to H.Inter rated. With newer and more evolved styles out now, its probably a High Moderate or Solid Moderate rated signature...

Enjoy,

mw.PMI
Master Works
07.05.08

[Hades.]

I was so drained after i made this, that i went to bed LOL



What do you guys think??

[borgleader]

Woah thats pretty sick I'll make sure to try this some day.